Exciting developments are underway in Bengaluru, as the renowned Kerala restaurant, Paragon, renowned for its diverse selection of signature dishes, is preparing to make its entry into the city. Bengaluru, which is rapidly establishing itself as the food capital of India, will soon welcome Paragon, a culinary institution established in 1939.

Amidst the bustling atmosphere of Church Street, Paragon has secured a location, and if all goes according to plan, the restaurant from Kozhikode will be ready to open its doors by New Year. Known as a culinary melting pot, Kozhikode has long been associated with Paragon's excellence in the field. Now, as Paragon ventures into Bengaluru, a city flourishing with a myriad of multi-cuisine restaurants, it aims to offer an authentic taste of Malabar cuisine, albeit with a local twist.

"We are currently working at full capacity, and hopefully, we will be able to commence operations by the New Year," stated Sumesh Govind, the owner of Paragon, in an interview with The Federal. He expressed his gratitude for securing a location on Church Street, which he considers a significant advantage. Church Street, not only in Bengaluru but in the entire country, is renowned for its exceptional ambiance and vibrant atmosphere.

Sumesh Govind further mentioned, "We have been fortunate to secure an excellent spot within a remarkable property developed by Sobha Group. Everything fell into place perfectly, and we are eagerly looking forward to the experience of serving Bengaluru."

While Paragon has established multiple branches in Kozhikode, Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi, and even in Dubai, this venture into Bengaluru marks its first expansion outside Kerala within India.

Can the Malabar taste be replicated?

Despite the vibrant atmosphere of Church Street, Sumesh is aware that the journey ahead won't be easy, as there are high expectations, particularly among the Malayalee diaspora.

For those seeking the flavors of Malabar and North Kerala, Paragon will serve a selection of its legendary dishes, including tamarind sauce fish curry, fish mango curry (featuring raw mango slices soaked in coconut milk), appam and mutton stew, and the ever-popular chicken biryani, which happens to be their best-selling dish.

When asked about the secret behind the success of Paragon's biryani, Sumesh enthusiastically explains that it was the result of five years of meticulous work. He mentions the collaboration between himself and chef Vijayan Pillai, involving numerous interactions, sessions, and adjustments until they were truly satisfied with the final product. The biryani gained popularity quickly and became a staple on their menu. They use Kaima rice sourced from Wayanad and white leghorn chicken (not broiler) in their preparation.

While Bengaluru is only a seven-hour drive from their base in Kozhikode/Wayanad, the group recognizes the challenges of expanding their business, especially in the food and beverage sector. They plan to offer their signature dishes in Bengaluru, with a few adjustments to cater to the cosmopolitan crowd. However, their focus remains on staying true to their classic dishes.

When asked about replicating the Malabar taste and experience in a non-coastal city like Bengaluru, Sumesh admits that even in cities closer to Kozhikode, such as Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram, it can be difficult to recreate the same flavors. He emphasizes the deep connection between Calicut and Paragon, acknowledging that the city holds a special place in his heart, which undoubtedly influences their offerings. Sumesh believes that the relationship between the city and its people is symbiotic, and it may not be easy to expect the same experience elsewhere.

Nevertheless, Sumesh assures that they are fully committed to creating a unique Paragon experience in Bengaluru. Alongside their popular dishes, they have exciting plans in store for the city. When asked about vegetarian options, he mentions that they have exclusive vegetarian dishes, and they may introduce some special dishes with local flavors. He also shares that prominent visitors like Nitin Gadkari, the Union Home Minister for Road Transport and Highways, enjoy their vegetarian offerings, such as potato kombathu and gobi in tamarind sauce, hinting at more surprises for vegetarian diners in Bengaluru.

Sumesh acknowledges that they cannot replicate the exact same experience in Bengaluru as they do in Kerala. Therefore, their R&D team is working on creating tailor-made menu items for the city. However, the core idea of staying true to their classic dishes will remain, as that is what attracts customers to Paragon repeatedly. Sumesh expresses confidence that Bengaluru will also warmly welcome them, just as Thiruvananthapuram has done.

Speaking about their experience in Thiruvananthapuram, Sumesh describes it as amazing, with overwhelming responses and long queues of customers at their outlet in Kesavadasapuram. The business has far exceeded their expectations, and they sometimes struggle to accommodate the growing crowd. Sumesh appreciates the unpredictable nature of the restaurant business and the unexpected rewards it brings.

With successful outlets in Kochi, particularly in Lulu Mall, and the thriving venture in Thiruvananthapuram, Sumesh reveals plans to open branches in Angamaly, Kannur, and Thrissur. Currently, Paragon has three outlets in Kochi (Lulu, Info Park, and Aster Medcity) and one in Thiruvananthapuram. Additionally, Paragon's sister concern, Salkara, operates around 12 branches in Kerala and Dubai. The group also manages M-Grill, a fine dining restaurant in Kozhikode offering a fusion of Thai, Japanese, Italian, and Malabar cuisine, as well as several outlets of their café brand called Browntown.

Sumesh shares their future expansion plans, including opening a branch in Angamaly on the national highway. He has long been considering Kannur and Thrissur as potential locations, and a second outlet in Thiruvananthapuram, specifically at Lulu Mall, is also in the pipeline. Outside of Kerala, they have received inquiries from Mumbai and Chennai. Sumesh emphasizes that they are not in a rush to open new branches anywhere and prefer to take their time.

When asked about competition in Bengaluru's dynamic restaurant scene, Sumesh responds with confidence. He believes that competition arises in a large market, which also brings ample opportunities. He has never been worried about competition or other players in the market and finds it enjoyable to run alongside new players. Sumesh's advice is to have faith in one's own product and the quality of service offered.

In the context of the statement, "The knives are being sharpened, quite literally," it implies a figurative expression indicating that competition is intensifying in the food industry.